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Mt. Lhakpa Ri Expedition (7,045m) Spring 2011
Lhakpa RiLhakpa Ri Mountain is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very closed to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to climbed Mount Everest the moment, one reaches on the top of this mountain. It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken McConnell in 1991. The present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past. The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa Ri Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, we should start our expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Than we have to take a night's rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this tract we reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m. After this at this point we may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this we should take a couple of day's rest there. After that climbing up ahead we reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic view of Makalu, Kanchanjunga and are seen. Than we get a good look of our route to up Lhakpa Ri. From ABC start early in the morning and should go crossing the glacier. There are few crevasses until we reach at the very food of the slope leading to us the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20 -30 degrees, so way to climb in not so hard but the vertical way is very long. We have use mail rope with group of 4-6 climbers per rope. Following way of the North ridge on the other side we see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. Same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From of the Lhakpa Ri, the very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen. After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with little bit height until we go ahead where we fix rope. Above there the climbing is little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is series of small nude ridge, which is some times covered with snow. After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead. Again after that section of the route, we should fix rope. Above these steps, route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not series as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the North Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest on the Tibet side

MAXIMUM: 35 Days
ENTRY: ZHANGMU
EXIT: LHASA
FIXED DEPARTURE: 16th April 2011
ITINERARY
12th April 2011 Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
13th April 2011 Day 02 Document apply for Tibet permit and Tibet visa
14th April 2011 Day 03 Preparation for expedition in Kathmandu
15th April 2011 Day 04 Final preparations for Lhakpa Ri expedition
16th April 2011 Day 05 Drive from Kathmandu to Zhangmu
17th April 2011 Day 06 Drive from Zhangmu to Nyalam
18th April 2011 Day 07 Rest day at Nyalam for acclimatization
19th April 2011 Day 08 Drive from Nyalam to Tingri
20th April 2011 Day 09 Rest day at Tingri for acclimatization
21th April 2011 Day 10 Drive from Tingri to Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
22th April 2011 Day 11 Lhakpa Ri Base Camp to Middle Camp
23th April 2011 Day 12 Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp
24th Apr -05th May 2011 Day 13-24 Climbing period of Mt. Lhakpa Ri
06th May 2011 Day 25 Packing all the equipments to return Kathmandu
07th May 2011 Day 26 Base Camp to Tingri
08th May 2011 Day 27 Tingri to Shegar
09th May 2011 Day 28 Shegar to Shigatse
10th May 2011 Day 29 Shigatse to Gyantse
11th May 2011 Day 30 Gyantse to Lhasa
12th-13th May 2011 Day 31-32 Lhasa Sightseeing
14th May 2011 Day 33 Flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu
15th May 2011 Day 34 Rest day at Kathmandu
16th May 2011 Day 35 Departure to your destination

MAXIMUM: 35 Days
ENTRY: ZHANGMU
EXIT: LHASA
FIXED DEPARTURE: 19th March 2011
ITINERARY
15th March 2011 Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
16th March 2011 Day 02 Document apply for Tibet permit and Tibet visa
17th March 2011 Day 03 Preparation for expedition in Kathmandu
18th March 2011 Day 04 Final preparations for Lhakpa Ri expedition
19th March 2011 Day 05 Drive from Kathmandu to Zhangmu
20th March 2011 Day 06 Drive from Zhangmu to Nyalam
21th March 2011 Day 07 Rest day at Nyalam for acclimatization
22th March 2011 Day 08 Drive from Nyalam to Tingri
23th March 2011 Day 09 Rest day at Tingri for acclimatization
24th March 2011 Day 10 Drive from Tingri to Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
25th March 2011 Day 11 Lhakpa Ri Base Camp to Middle Camp
26th March 2011 Day 12 Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp
27th Mar- 07th Apr 2011 Day 13-24 Climbing period of Mt. Lhakpa Ri
08th April 2011 Day 25 Packing all the equipments to return Kathmandu
09th April 2011 Day 26 Base Camp to Tingri
10th April 2011 Day 27 Tingri to Shegar
11th April 2011 Day 28 Shegar to Shigatse
12th April 2011 Day 29 Shigatse to Gyantse
13th April 2011 Day 30 Gyantse to Lhasa
14th-15th April 2011 Day 31-32 Lhasa Sightseeing
16th April 2011 Day 33 Flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu
17th April 2011 Day 34 Rest day at Kathmandu
18th April 2011 Day 35 Departure to your destination

 
Cost Includes:
01
6 nights 3 star standard hotels in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast
02
Mt. Lhakpa Ri expedition permit fee
03
Tibet Visa and Travel permit fee
04
Liaison officer and Interpreter
05
Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri, Lhasa (bed and breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
06
Emergency Oxygen, Mask and regulator for Advance Base Camp
07
Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $ 5)
08
We provide 3 Yak Per person's (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to from CBC to ABC
09
We provide 2 Yak Per person's (35 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to CBC
10 We provide 1 Yak for each high altitude Sherpa CBC to ABC to CBC
11 We provide 1 Yak for each ABC member and CBC member 
12 Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself
13 Base Camp to Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 2 person provide North Face or same qualities
14 Dining tent, Table, Chairs, Toilet tent, Mess tent and Kitchen tent
15 Transportation: Kathmandu to Zhangmu to Base Camp to Zhangmu provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
16 Nepalese crew' insurance
 
Cost Excludes:
01
Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
02
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
03
Laundry, postage, telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
04
Entry visa and Re-entry for Nepal.
05
International departure tax.
06
Personal Expenses.
07
Medical and rescue insurance.
08
Personal Climbing equipment
09
Bar Bills and beverage
10 Rescue Jeep US$ 700.00
11 Medicine and first aid expenses
12 Garbage Deposit US$ 500.00 (sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
13 Walkie-Talkie
14 Extra yak, per Yak's US$ 100.00 will be charge till to 50 kg load.
15 Climbing Bonus and summit bonus for climbing sherpa (if you use climbing sherpa)
 
Extra Services:
01
Russian oxygen 4 litters US$ 450.00
02
Mask & Regular US$ 400.00
03
Satellite phone US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
04
Film Permit US$ 5,000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
05
Duty Jeep US$ 3,500.00   
06
Rescue Jeep USD 700.00 per Jeep

CONFIRMED GROUP 2010
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Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition
Mt. Shishapangma Exp.
Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition
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  Mt. Aamadablam Exp.
  Island Peak Climbing
  Mt. Kanchanjunga Exp.
  Kanchanjunga Trek
  Mountain Flight
  Kathmandu Experience
 
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