| Full Board Mt. Lhakpa Ri Expedition (7,045m) Spring 2011 |
 Lhakpa Ri Mountain is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very closed to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to climbed Mount Everest the moment, one reaches on the top of this mountain. It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken McConnell in 1991. The present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past. The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa Ri Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, we should start our expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Than we have to take a night's rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this tract we reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m. After this at this point we may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this we should take a couple of day's rest there. After that climbing up ahead we reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic view of Makalu, Kanchanjunga and are seen. Than we get a good look of our route to up Lhakpa Ri. From ABC start early in the morning and should go crossing the glacier. There are few crevasses until we reach at the very food of the slope leading to us the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20 -30 degrees, so way to climb in not so hard but the vertical way is very long. We have use mail rope with group of 4-6 climbers per rope. Following way of the North ridge on the other side we see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. Same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From of the Lhakpa Ri, the very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen. After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with little bit height until we go ahead where we fix rope. Above there the climbing is little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is series of small nude ridge, which is some times covered with snow. After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead. Again after that section of the route, we should fix rope. Above these steps, route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not series as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the North Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest on the Tibet side |
| MAXIMUM: |
35 Days |
| ENTRY: |
ZHANGMU |
| EXIT: |
LHASA |
| FIXED
DEPARTURE: |
10th APRIL 2011 |
| ITINERARY |
|
| 06th April |
2011 |
Day
01 |
Arrivals
in Kathmandu transfer to hotel |
| 07th April |
2011 |
Day 02 |
Document apply for Tibet
permit and Tibet visa |
| 08th April |
2011 |
Day
03 |
Preparation
for expedition in Kathmandu |
| 09th April |
2011 |
Day
04 |
|
