| Full Board Mt. Lhakpa Ri Expedition (7,045m) Autumn 2011 |
 Lhakpa Ri Mountain is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very closed to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to climbed Mount Everest the moment, one reaches on the top of this mountain. It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by Ken McConnell in 1991. The present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past. The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa Ri Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, we should start our expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Than we have to take a night's rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this tract we reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m. After this at this point we may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this we should take a couple of day's rest there. After that climbing up ahead we reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic view of Makalu, Kanchanjunga and are seen. Than we get a good look of our route to up Lhakpa Ri. From ABC start early in the morning and should go crossing the glacier. There are few crevasses until we reach at the very food of the slope leading to us the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20 -30 degrees, so way to climb in not so hard but the vertical way is very long. We have use mail rope with group of 4-6 climbers per rope. Following way of the North ridge on the other side we see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. Same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From of the Lhakpa Ri, the very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen. After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with little bit height until we go ahead where we fix rope. Above there the climbing is little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is series of small nude ridge, which is some times covered with snow. After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead. Again after that section of the route, we should fix rope. Above these steps, route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not series as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the North Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest on the Tibet side |
| MAXIMUM: |
35 Days |
| ENTRY: |
ZHANGMU |
| EXIT: |
LHASA |
| FIXED
DEPARTURE: |
09TH SEPTEMBER 2011 |
| ITINERARY |
|
| 05th September |
2011 |
Day
01 |
Arrivals
in Kathmandu transfer to hotel |
| 06th September |
2011 |
Day 02 |
Document apply for Tibet
permit and Tibet visa |
| 07th September |
2011 |
Day
03 |
Preparation
for expedition in Kathmandu |
| 08th September |
2011 |
Day
04 |
Final preparations for
Lhakpa Ri expedition |
| 09th September |
2011 |
Day 05 |
Drive from
Kathmandu to Zhangmu 2300m |
| 10th September |
2011 |
Day
06 |
Drive from Zhangmu to
Nyalam 2750m |
| 11th September |
2011 |
Day
07 |
Rest
days at Nyalam for acclimatization |
| 12th September |
2011 |
Day 08 |
Drive from Nyalam to
Tingri 4340m |
| 13th September |
2011 |
Day 09 |
Rest
days at Tingri for acclimatization |
| 14th September |
2011 |
Day
10 |
Drive from Tingri to
Lhakpa Ri Base Camp |
| 15th September |
2011 |
Day
11 |
Lhakpa Ri Base Camp to Middle camp |
| 16th September |
2011 |
Day 12 |
Middle Camp to Advance Base
Camp |
| 17th
Sep-
28th Sep |
2011 |
Day 13-24 |
Climbing Period
for Lhakpa Ri Expedition 7045m |
| 29th September |
2011 |
Day 25 |
Prepare for return to Kathmandu |
| 30th September |
2011 |
Day 26 |
Base Camp to Tingri |
| 01st October |
2011 |
Day 27 |
Tingri to Shegar |
| 02nd October |
2011 |
Day 28 |
Shegar to Shigatse |
| 03rd October |
2011 |
Day 29 |
Shigatse to Gyantse |
| 04th October |
2011 |
Day 30 |
Gyantse to Lhasa |
| 05th-06th October |
2011 |
Day 31-32 |
Lhasa Sight-seeing |
| 07th October |
2011 |
Day 33 |
Flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel |
| 08th October |
2011 |
Day 34 |
Rest Day at Kathmandu |
| 09th October |
2011 |
Day 35 |
Departure your Destination |
| MAXIMUM: |
35 Days |
| ENTRY: |
ZHANGMU |
| EXIT: |
LHASA |
| FIXED
DEPARTURE: |
13 AUGUST 2011 |
| ITINERARY |
|
| 09th August |
2011 |
Day
01 |
Arrivals
in Kathmandu transfer to hotel |
| 10th August |
2011 |
Day 02 |
Document apply for Tibet
permit and Tibet visa |
| 11th August |
2011 |
Day 03 |
Preparation for expedition
in Kathmandu |
| 12th August |
2011 |
Day 04 |
Final preparations for
Lhakpa Ri expedition |
| 13th August |
2011 |
Day 05 |
Drive from
Kathmandu to Zhangmu 2300m |
| 14th August |
2011 |
Day 06 |
Drive from Zhangmu to
Nyalam 2750m |
| 15th August |
2011 |
Day 07 |
Rest days at Nyalam
for acclimatization |
| 16th August |
2011 |
Day 08 |
Drive from Nyalam to
Tingri 4340m |
| 17th August |
2011 |
Day 09 |
Rest days at Tingri
for acclimatization |
| 18th August |
2011 |
Day 10 |
Drive from Tingri to
Lhakpa Ri Base Camp |
| 19th August |
2011 |
Day 11 |
Lhakpa Ri Base Camp to Middle camp |
| 20th August |
2011 |
Day 12 |
Middle Camp to Advance Base
Camp |
| 21th Aug-01thSep |
2011 |
Day 13-24 |
Climbing Period
for Lhakpa Ri Expedition 7045m |
| 02nd September |
2011 |
Day 25 |
Prepare for return to Kathmandu |
| 03rd September |
2011 |
Day 26 |
Base Camp to Tingri |
| 04th September |
2011 |
Day 27 |
Tingri to Shegar |
| 05th September |
2011 |
Day 28 |
Shegar to Shigatse |
| 06th September |
2011 |
Day 29 |
Shigatse to Gyantse |
| 07th September |
2011 |
Day 30 |
Gyantse to Lhasa |
| 08th-09th September |
2011 |
Day 31-32 |
Lhasa Sight-seeing |
| 10th September |
2011 |
Day 33 |
Flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel |
| 11th September |
2011 |
Day 34 |
Rest Day at Kathmandu |
| 12th September |
2011 |
Day 35 |
Departure your Destination |
| |
Cost
Includes: |
01 |
6 nights 3 star standard hotels in Kathmandu
with bed & breakfast |
02 |
Mt.
Lhakpa Ri expedition permit fee |
03 |
Tibet
Visa and Travel permit fee |
04 |
Liaison
officer and Interpreter |
05 |
Emergency
Oxygen, Mask and regulator for Advance
Base Camp |
06 |
Satellite
phone in payable basis (per minute $ 5). |
07 |
Expert
professional Nepalese expedition crews
like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering
gears till to the ABC are provided; and
our crews get all expedition facilities
from our office itself. |
08 |
Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam & Tingri (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner) as well as Shigatse, Ghyntse, Lhasa after expedition |
09 |
Base
Camp to Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 2
person provide North Face or same qualities |
10 |
Dining
tent, Table, Chairs, Toilet tent, Mess
tent and Kitchen tent |
11 |
We
provide 3 Yak Per person's (40 KG) Load
is carried by the Yak till to the from
CBC to ABC |
12 |
We
provide 2 Yak Per person's (35 KG) Load
is carried by the Yak on the way back to
the ABC to CBC |
13 |
We
provide 1 Yak for each high altitude Sherpa
CBC to ABC to CBC |
14 |
We
provide 1 Yak for each ABC member and CBC
member |
| 15 |
Transportation:
Kathmandu to Zhangmu to Base Camp
and Tingri to Lhasa overland and Lhasa Sight-seeing-with guide and transport. |
| 16 |
Lhasa to Kathmandu by Flight. |
| 17 |
Special Note: In Lhasa(Hotel Accomodation will be B/B plan, all sightseeing,all entrance fee) |
| |
Cost
Excludes: |
01 |
Air
travel to and from Kathmandu. |
02 |
Lunch
and dinner in Kathmandu |
03 |
Laundry,
postage, telephone calls
and all other items of personal nature. |
04 |
Entry
visa and Re-entry for Nepal. |
05 |
International
departure tax. |
06 |
Personal
Expenses. |
07 |
Medical
and rescue insurance. |
08 |
Personal
Climbing equipment |
09 |
Bar
Bills and beverage |
10 |
Rescue
Jeep US$ 700.00 |
11 |
Medicine
and first aid expenses |
12 |
Garbage
Deposit US$ 500.00 (sharing of the total
person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded
if the clients (climber) don't take back
their garbage. |
13 |
Walkie-Talkie |
14 |
Extra
yak, per Yak's US$ 100.00 will be charge
till to 50 kg load. |
| 15 |
Climbing
Bonus and summit bonus for climbing sherpa
(if you use climbing sherpa) and
Tips for Base Camp staff |
| |
Extra
Service if required : |
01 |
Russian
oxygen 4 litters US$ 450.00 |
02 |
Mask & Regulator
US$ 400.00 |
03 |
Satellite
phone US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use
from climber) |
04 |
Film
Permit US$ 5,000.00 (Small Portable movie
camera is free) |
05 |
Duty
Jeep US$ 3,500.00 |
06 |
Rescue
Jeep USD 700.00 per Jeep |
|
